Setting Up a New Saltwater Aquarium

Here are some step-by-step tips for getting started in the fastest growing hobby in the world. These 10 steps can help you to avoid many common mistakes and get you into a fish tank that you can live with and be proud of.

• 1. Preparing Your Water
  • Water is the single most important element of an aquarium. It is important to prepare your water before adding any fishes. Add approximately one cup of the Instant Ocean Sea Salt per 5 gallons of water (instead of the aquarium salt). Wait until well dissolved (stirring occassionally will help), then use the hydrometer to determine the specific gravity. If the reading is less than 1.023, add one cup of Instant Ocean to the tank. Repeat until reading is between 1.023 and 1.025.
  • The hydrometer is unique to a marine tank and so are some of the chemicals. The hydrometer is inexpensive and it measures the specific gravity in the water; translation, it tells you if you have enough salt in the water. They are easy to read and clearly marked. For chemicals, you will need a pH kit, marine test kit, salt and marine buffer. These various kits measure the levels of ammonia and nitrates in the tank. This is the hardest part, keeping these levels within normal ranges. The levels are checked daily and they are also easy to read, but, slight fluctuations can wreak havoc.
  • Set everything up and start adding the saltwater. You might use luke-warm water to fill it to decrease the job on your heater. Mix the salt with the water according to the instructions on the bag, use your hydrometer to make sure you've added enough. Fill the tank near the top and then start running your filter. You will notice a big difference in the water level once you turn it on, especially with a wet/dry. From there, you can add more water accordingly. Once its filled, check your pH levels, adjust accordingly, check temperature and adjust heater accordingly, and add the marine buffer. Temperatures will vary depending upon the fish you are getting. Seventy-six degrees though, is a good setting for now. Anything over eighty degrees will be too warm for any species. That cloud of sand will also begin to dissipate after the filter runs; it may take a few days.
• 2. Setting Up Your Supplies
  • Lights and Filters Lights are standard but there are several types of filters. There are canister, under-gravel, and a unique filter to marine tanks called wet/dry. Wet/dry filters are the common choice and they're great for first time enthusiasts. They do sit outside the tank so they are easier to access and clean. If you decide on one of these, you might get a rough idea of where you are going to place it so you know how much hose you will need. Normally they sit at the base of the tank somewhere, but, if you plan to hide it in a "nook" or "hidey" hole, get a length of hose that will reach. Otherwise, the standard length of hose may be too short.
  • Water Circulation Marine tanks are aerated by water turbulence, which is variety and wave like motion. Your filter will provide enough of this via the water import and export hoses attached to it.
  • Protein Skimmers >These are not necessary for fish only tanks, but they do make the water amazingly clear. Saltwater tanks develop this foamy "crud" on the top as a result of the turbulence. You can liken this to that white foam you see on the sand at the beach, when the tide rolls out. A protein skimmer sucks this off the top of the water.
  • Other Supplies A hydrometer, thermometer, heater, algae scrubber, salt, and chemicals.
• 3. Setting Up Heater and Water Pumps
  • Check to see what heater you have. If you have a hanging heater, hang it off the back, someplace where you can still see it. You want to be able to see it so you can tell when it is on. If you have a submersible heater, place it near the bottom of the tank (heat rises), and approximately horizontal. Next find a location for your air pump. Setup your pump according to your pump's manual.
• 4. What Is Cycling?
  • Marine tanks have to cycle. This is when a new tank goes through a period of growing beneficial bacteria that is absolutely necessary to marine fish. You'll lose them otherwise. It takes a good six weeks for a tank to cycle. There are some things you can do to speed it along and at least have something halfway pleasant to look at, rather than a barren wave tank. You can buy another chemical called a biological supplement. These add some of the needed bacteria. You can also add live rock, if available.
  • The rock contains important enzymes and bacteria as well, which aid in the breakdown of fish waste. This translates into less deaths, the biggest problem associated with unsuccessful tanks. Between these two methods, you can shave a couple of weeks off the average cycling. It may still be worth your while to wait it out, just to be on the safe side.
• 5. After Cycling
  • Once this is all over, you'll do a partial water change, the first of many. After the growth of the needed bacteria, nitrates, a waste by-product, builds up in the water. This is a major contributor to the death of fish, and the only way to lower this level is by changing a third of the water periodically. Just remember to add more salt and that marine buffer if necessary. Re-check all of your pH and nitrate levels as well as the temperature. Now, you can begin to add different fish, if you like. You can add Damsels for a tester. It's good to do this while you're actually cycling your tank.
• 6. Acclimating Procedure
  • Finally, it's time for you to add the fishes you been researching. The most important step to success in keeping a saltwater aquarium is the acclimation of your new livestock. FreshMarine highly recommends you follow our acclimation procedure. With the proper acclimation procedure you will not stress your aquatic livestock.
• 7. Observing Your Fishes
  • Feed and observe your fish daily. If your fish tank has decorative objects, most likely your new fishes will go into hiding. This is normal, and will last up to a few days. When they do show themselves, observe them. Take note of how their bodies look like, and how they behave, so you will know when something odd happens.
  • Feed very sparingly during this beginning stage. As the filtration and bacteria system is still new, do not want to pollute the water too much. I suggest feeding small amounts once a day starting from the second or third day. If your fishes refuse to eat, do not put in more food. Try feeding again the next day. This is normal and you do not need to worry, as the fishes most likely already eaten, and they can survive for as long as a week without food.
• 8. Maintain Your Tank
  • Check your filters at least twice a week. Perform a 10-15% water change every week, and scrub for algae at the same time. Every month, check all hoses, fittings, clamps, cords, lights and other miscellaneous equipment. This may sound like a lot, but a couple of minutes a day could tell you months in advance of a disaster.
  • Water changes usually take under 30 minutes for a tank, including checking all equipment and scrubbing for algae! Most people find their aquariums to take under 2 minutes a day to keep everything in good order.
• 9. Your Fish Tank
  • Soon, your fishes will get used to their environment. They will start becoming more active. Their vibrant colors will start showing. And they may even recognize you whenever you come close to feed them.
• 10. Congratulations
  • FreshMarine.com congratulates you for setting up your new aquarium. But of course, you have to be a responsible owner. We want you and your family to enjoy the new additions to your living aquarium for as long as possible.