Marine Quarantine Tank

Marine Quarantine Tank

Marine quarantine tank (MQT) – The concept
Marine quarantine tank (MQT) is a setup in which new, sick, or stressed marine animals are kept isolated from the main tank to help them recover from the environment change shock/stress and prevent any spreading of diseases in the main tank. Generally, a marine animal is quarantined for 2-3 weeks before its introduction or retreat to the main tank.

Marine quarantine tank - The requirement

Cost control: A marine quarantine tank, also known as “hospital tank,” is an integral unit of serious aquaria set up. In the case of saltwater systems, this tank is especially required, since seawater animals are expensive and need extra care for their maintenance. Therefore, if dealt with correctly, a marine quarantine tank helps keep the aquarium costs in check.

New animal: Every time a new inhabitant is introduced into an aquarium, there is a risk of the onset of some disease or parasite attack. The newbie may be a carrier of the same, or due to the stress of relocation; it may become susceptible to the germs present in the new environment. A quarantine tank allows a new entrant to gain optimum health before their final stressful transition to the main tank.

Reproduction: A quarantine tank is also helpful for breeding/fry (eggs) care. Some marine animals have to be conditioned for breeding with the help of apt supporting factors, like water temperature and lighting. Quarantine tanks are also handy when eggs need anti fungal medication and fry require special water condition or more time to grow.

Setting up MQT - the pre-requisites

Tank size: Before establishing a quarantine tank, you should ascertain the quantity and size of its inmates. For example, in case of a small sized animal (up to 10 cm), a 10 gallons tank suffices, while for a bigger scale, a 29-gallons tank makes an excellent choice for both, salt water and fresh water needs.

Equipment:

Filter: A sponge or hang-on power filter is fine for a marine quarantine tank.

Lighting: Fluorescent illumination is mostly used for marine tanks.

Heater: A standard heater for marine setups should be picked according to the size of the tank. Submersible heater is a better choice, as it facilitates a better and even distribution of heat than the traditional one that hangs on the side. If the temperature of the environment the tank is kept in stays within the fluctuation range of 10 degrees, a heater of about 2-˝ watts per gallon is fine. If it fluctuates more than that, go with 5 watts per gallon. Heater failure often occurs. Mostly the on/off switch is stuck, leaving the heater on or off beyond requirement. Consequently, water temperature may turn intolerable for a tank's inmates.

Thermometer: Use a separate thermometer for QT. In case you use the same thermometer that you use in main tank, then do sterilize it every time before shifting it in between the tanks.

Power head and/or an air stone: They increase surface agitation.

Test kits: Aquarium test kits for nitrate, nitrite, and ph are needed for a marine quarantine tank.

Fish net: Do not use the same net for your main tank. Keep a separate one for the MQT.

Disinfecting MQT: Prior to installation, make sure you thoroughly disinfect every unit of the MQT, including the tank. A mild (2-5%) clorox solution is ideal. Drying for 6-7 days also effectively kills many, but not all aquatic pathogens. 1 tsp. of 2.303% solution of methylene blue for every 5 gallons of tank water is helpful against several bacteria and parasites.

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